The Gourmet Wish List for Those who have tasted everything

By Laurence Civil

The Food Writer's Choice
Every month Bangkok Dining & Entertainment's team of food writers is assigned to review restaurants to suit the needs of the publication. For once we have decided to turn the tables and ask them the question "Which Restaurant Would You Most Like To Dine In?" As with any group, the responses were very diverse and without a single concesious of opinion, three restaurants emerging as the most popular are listed in alphabetical order; Breeze, at Lebua State Tower, Le Normandie at The Oriental and Pier 59 at Banyan Tree Bangkok. The common denominator in all three are they are all located in one of Bangkok's Top Hotels, each represents the best in its category of food style and they all have a different view of the Chao Phryaya River. Le Normandie looks out over the shuttle boats crossing the river; at Breeze, from where we were sitting, there was a similar view but from a higher elevation looking across into Thonburi district and; at Pier 59 the view is 90°s to the left of the other two looking at the river from The Port on the left hand side to the Kasikorn Bank Building next to Rama IX Bridge on the right. Sounding a bit like the answer to a trivial Pursuit Question, each are on a floor that starts with the number 5 – Le Normandie on the 5th, Breeze on 51st & 52nd and; Pier 59. This was payback time for the team of writers, the opportunity to re-tune their taste buds on the fine cuisine Bangkok has to offer.

Breeze
My table was set in a semi-circular bay on 51st Floor of State Tower looking out over the river. I was offered a glass of deliciously fresh Sileni Cellar Selection Saignée Rosé 2006. A rack of five Asian flavoured sauces, each in a shot that were assertively spicy without being pushy was placed in the middle of the table. I opted for the set menu taking advantage of the chef's best selection from his a la carte menu. To start deep-fried soft shell crabs imported with Malay curry leaves. Then a crystal clear Shark's Fin braised in superior chicken stock. This was followed with Malaysian style Maine lobster, the taste of the flesh making a good combination with the fragrant spices leaving a subtle peppery aftertaste on the tongue. To demonstrate the difference of sweeter taste of cold water Australian Lobster, Malaysian born Chef Ken Ho stir-fried some with Shimeji mushrooms in a black bean sauce for me to taste.

I then decided to switch to Selini's Ssatyr Sauvignon Blanc 2006 with typical stonefruit, tropical and gooseberry aromas for my main course. Roasted Silver Cod caramelized in champagne was one of the most perfectly cooked pieces of fish I have eaten, moist and yet soft with a flaky texture. Finally a trio dessert of a Chocolate Shooter, passion fruit with mascarpone and white chocolate amid strawberries served on ice to ensure a perfect taste.

It's Asian seafood without being country specific. The service is efficient, comfortable and unobtrusive, reading the needs of the customer whilst feeling the breeze kiss my face during the evening.

Le Normandie
In 1969 back in the early days of Kurt Wachtveitl's never ending tenure as General Manager of The Oriental Hotel, the Italian joint venture partner of Ital Thai Giorgio Berlingieri was then very critical of the hotel's restaurants. The first to be changed was the Normandie Grill and it has since hosted the Who's Who of three star Michelin Chef's. Sitting on the 5th floor of the River Wing, it remains the restaurant that is first without equal in Bangkok, serving the best in perfect style where the only stiffness is to be found in the linen napkin.

How better to start tasting the degustation menu than with a flute of Möet Dry Imperial Rosé. To start Brittany Lobster with crab meat paired with a 2005 Sancere by Pascal Jolivet. Next a frothy lettuce, duck liver and parsnip soup with truffle served with a White Chateau Mouton Cadet 2005. Then poached St Peter's fish with a mint pea and asparagus custard that went perfectly with Verget's Pouilly-Fuisse "Terriors de Soulutre" 2004. The main course was veal sweet bread with beef tenderloin perfectly married with Chateau Desmirail 2001 from Margaux. Chesse before dessert, so delightfully French and well matched with vintage port. To finish the meal a spicy chocolate and pear Sangria not paired with a French Sautrernes as one might have expected but rather a Late Harvest from Anakena in Chile. The idea of fine dining can be off putting to some but really shouldn't be, it simply is doing everything correctly and using the best ingredients. A gentleman being asked to wear a jacket for dinner is merely paying respect to the dining experience.

Pier 59
The columns of epervesant water create the feel of dining under the sea. High backed electric blue acrylic seats with turquoise blue tabletops give a minimalist tidy feel to the table set up. For a balanced view of Pier 59's dining experience I took their six-course degustation menu with paired wines.

Before the meal was served I was offered the restaurant's own Naan bread served in a silver toast rack with a tuna dip, salted butter and a tomato dip plus an eagle oyster to wake up my palette. To start I was served Tartar of Ahi Tuna, Californian avocado with a deliciously subtle ginger sauce paired with a Banfi Pinot Grigio 2005 from Tuscany. Followed by breaded crab cakes on a concasse of finely diced tomato, capsicum and cucumber with an unusual but perfect taste combination of Dijon mustard ice cream. Seared foie gras that was crisp on the outside while still perfectly smooth inside sitting on a roast apple gallette that nicely balanced was served with a Willm Gewürztraminer 2004 from Alsace. To cleanse the palette before the main course lemon lavender sherbet was served.

I next had a choice between king prawns and Wagyu Beef Tenderloin and I opted for seafood. Seared in rosemary, a pair of King Prawns were presented on a bed of braised mushroom saffron risotto presented with an Alexander Valley Chardonnay 2004 from California. A banana variation served three ways; flambéd, with a chocolate mousse and as a sherbet brought about the finishing touch. An efficient precise service in the midst of each course being explained as it was placed on the table.