Inspired Japanese Dining

By JB Hockney

Japanese food has come a long way in recent years, and today it is considered one of the world's finest cuisines. And nowhere more so than in Bangkok. From the cheap and cheerful ramen and shabu shabu chain restaurants in Siam Square, to the authentic izakaya style venues on Thong Lo and the many fine dining options that abound in the city, most people will have at least tried Japanese food in one form or another.

This month, we are taking a closer look at this fine cuisine, hoping to paint a picture of what is going on Bangkok's top venues. We have tried to find the freshest sushi, the crispiest tempura and the most innovative fusion dishes. All, of course, at venues where you can be assured of the highest standards.

In order to get a feel for the range of options on offer, we visited some of the finest hotel restaurants, established stand-alone ventures, new kids on the block, and reliable family eateries. Imported food is maybe not so unusual these days, and Japanese food in Bangkok has benefited tremendously from this state of affairs. Just about everywhere we visited uses fresh ingredients – fish, vegetables, sake – imported directly from Japan several times a week. This means that you are getting the freshest produce, but at a fraction of the price you would pay at top Tokyo restaurants. Get ready to be inspired.

Keyaki (0-2632-9000 ext 4205)
The Pan Pacific Hotel is hugely popular with Japanese visitors to Bangkok. The lobby is a constant whir of activity, with businessmen exchanging cards and holiday makers heading out to take in the sights and sounds of Silom district. But not everyone heads off to Soi Thaniya and Surawong to eat, and the hotel's own Japanese restaurant, Keyaki, is one of the better options available. Located up on the 22nd floor, the understated main dining room offers a superb view over the iconic Lumphini Park. The restaurant is well lit and decked out in light woods and mild pastel colours.

Keyaki has sushi and teppanyaki counters, as one might expect, plus a robotoyaki section where raw ingredients are laid out for customers to choose for the chefs to cook. A fun way to dine. From the regular sushi menu, toro tuna belly is always going to stand out. This lusciously marbled delicacy never comes cheap, but here it is truly worth the extravagance. Beautifully coloured and rather generous slices are served on a bed of ice and garnish and deliver a winning taste.

For the more fusion-minded among you, the asparagus and scallops with vinegared miso sauce is a fascinating combination that works surprisingly well. Not to be missed is the chawan mushi, a savoury egg custard containing a melange of prawns and mushrooms and served in a delightful ornamental pot.

Mori Grill (0-2290-0125 ext 7105)
Heading north along Ratchadaphisek Road, options for quality Japanese food may appear few and far between. The Mori Grill at the Chaophya Park Hotel offers a solution, however, with a wide range of traditional dishes available alongside some localised versions of Japanese classics. A relatively informal eatery, the Mori Grill attracts a lot of local families drawn by the reasonable prices and laid back atmosphere.

Several traditional style private tatami rooms are available, while the main dining room offers a mixture of couch and chair seating. The focal point of the restaurant is the hugely popular buffet, which is available for both lunch (576++ baht) and dinner (636++ baht), and is an absolute steal. The a la carte menu is also well worth investigating, and again is very reasonably priced.

Imported seafood is available, but the availability of local produce means the opportunity to tuck into a genuine feast without flattening your wallet. The salmon slices in the sashimi platter are fat and juicy and are complemented perfectly by the huge chunks of refreshing cucumber, and the maguro-akami sashimi is particularly praiseworthy.

One should not miss the seafood teppanyaki here, as it really is one of the highlights. The fresh, juicy prawns are full of flavour and you might have to exercise a certain amount of restraint to restrict yourself to just one order. Another highlight of the menu is the zesty and refreshing zaru soba, buckwheat noodles served chilled alongside a cold broth for dipping. Spring onions and wasabi are, naturally, served alongside for you to add at your discretion.

Taihei (0-2679-1200)
For truly stylish Japanese dining, Taihei on South Sathorn is one of the best. Way up high on the 53rd and 54th floor the Banyan Tree hotel, the restaurant affords splendid views on three sides. Not that the vistas are the only reason to come here. Great efforts have been made to ensure that Taihei is a chic, thoroughly modern dining experience – sleek black stone floors, intimate tatami rooms, discrete, knowledgeable staff and a muted colour scheme. Plus, Taihei lays claim to one of the most expansive collections of shochu and sake in the city.

Start your meal with one of the exquisitely tempting sake cocktails, such as the Yokohama Sling, a nifty variation on the Singapore classic. Then get ready for some of the most delicious Japanese cuisine in town, with an accent on authenticity.

For sashimi, which is presented with a flourish of seashells, ice and sculpted vegetables, the otoro premium tuna belly is a must – beautifully marbled, the fatty cuts simply melt in the mouth. The salmon is similarly impressive, with a firm yet tender texture and full-bodied taste.

Perhaps the highlight of a meal at Taihei is the Omi beef. Classed alongside Kobe and Matsuzaka as one of Japan's premium red meats, we sampled the Omi sushi-style, and were suitably impressed. The tender, luscious chunks of meats were gorgeously presented atop tasty short grain Japanese rice, and left us wondering when beef had ever tasted so good. Of course, you can also enjoy the beef teppanyaki style, and the upstairs section of the restaurant offers several personalized teppanyaki counters.

Kamon (0-2247-0123)
Popular with nearby government offices and Japanese companies, especially at lunchtime, Kamon at the Siam City Hotel offers stylish private rooms, an excellent sushi bar and a pair of comfortable teppanyaki counters. The main dining room is tastefully done out in muted reds and browns while elegant, kimono-clad waitresses glide silently, attending to customers, and imparting a discrete air of sophistication.

There is a huge choice of fare at Kamon, with something catering to your every whim, be it lightly battered tempura, deep-fried soft shell crab and avacado sushi or the Thai favourite, shabu shabu. Of particular interest is the teppanyaki, with chefs putting on truly impressive knife juggling shows while cooking up delicious Australian Wagyu beef concoctions. The beef is incredibly juicy and flavourful and when paired with the wonderful wasabi fried rice, truly memorable. Imported US beef is also available, but it is the Aussie meat that steals the show.

For sashimi, we really have to recommend the hamachi, or yellowtail fish. The large, succulent slices were bursting with flavour and managed to stand out, even among such celebrated company such as maguro tuna and salmon. With a pleasing sense of adventure, Kamon has embraced the current appetite for fusion Japanese. There are plenty of interesting choices to go for, though special mention must be made of the unagi roll pizza: eel and avacado in sushi rice, topped with a creamy mayonnaise salad. Noodle dishes, which are on promotion in May, are no less interesting at this impressive eatery. For an interesting take on a traditional theme, try the chilled noodles which have been creatiively sculpted into the form of maki sushi rolls.

Shin Daikoku (0-2656-0096/98)
A long time Bangkok favourite, Shin Daikoku know how to do things right. The restaurant's InterContinental Hotel branch, is a calm and classy affair, with beautiful private rooms, a classic sushi bar, an intimate teppanyaki room and a tranquil main dining room. Waitresses flit around in kimono's and hearty "Irashaimasais" greet you at the door.

It's wonderful to watch the sushi chefs at work. The chairs are comfortable, and the kitchen floor is lower than the counter, meaning you can see the famous artistry and precision of these culinary specialists close-up. The mixed sashimi sets come on a bed of ice, decorated with carved vegetables and oyster shells. Prawn heads are removed and served, deep-fried, alongside the platter – a nice, crunchy touch. Avocado wrapped with fresh salmon, meanwhile, comes drizzled with a slightly spicy shrimp roe sauce that contains a whisper of chilli and provides a gorgeous little kick to the delicate dish.

For those of you looking to expand your horizons beyond traditional fare, Shin Daikoku has a praiseworthy selection of fusion dishes. The crispy salmon and cheese spring rolls are delicious, while the impressively presented rainbow tempura – five little balls of minced shrimp with individual coatings and distinctly different tastes – are a fantastic innovation. Squeeze lime over the parcels to really invigorate the flavours.

Ten-Sui (0-2663-2281)
A newcomer to the Bangkok dining scene, Ten-Sui is a fantastic venue on Sukhumvit 16. The first thing that strikes you about the restaurant is the garden which borders the building. Beautifully landscaped, mist hovers over the gentle stream as plants and flowers create a serene atmosphere. A handsome veranda offers the perfect spot from which to enjoy the garden.

Ten-Sui uses its space well. Although not large, tables are not crammed in, and diners have enough space to be able to relax at their table and enjoy the delicious fare on offer. A traditional sushi bar runs down one side of the main room, the highly-skilled chefs (Ten-Sui employs four Japanese chefs) exchanging conversation with patrons in a friendly and relaxed manner.

The restaurant prides itself on its sashimi and sake – and the tako tsukuri, or thinly sliced octopus sashimi, is outstanding. Octopus has a tendency to be tough and insipid, but here it is flavoursome and tender. For something a little different, try some of the ishi-yaki dishes. For this style of cuisine, piping hot stones are arranged on the table and customers cook their food themselves. We tried the Australian rib-eye and found it to be magnificent: meaty and juicy, with just the right amount of fat.

Also worth investigating is the kami-nabe, a kind of soup served in a Japanese flameproof paper pot. Loaded with succulent duck and vegetables, the yuki-gamo-no-kaminabe is splendid. After eating, be sure to take a drink on the veranda and enjoy the garden.