Raising the steaks
By JB Hockney
Despite the vast variety of excellent dining options in Bangkok, there comes a time when only a steak will do. Luckily, there are some outstanding venues to choose from. Over the next few pages, we explore a handful of the best to help you satisfy that craving.
At the moment, US beef is available at some, but not all, restaurants. Fine Australian grain fed Angus has stepped up to the mark and is found at most venues, while Argentinean varieties are still easy to find. And, of course, hi-end steakhouses almost always carry the intensely marbled, buttery Kobe, Wagyu and Matsuzaka beef from Japan.
Choosing between cuts can be a dilemma for some. Grain fed cattle produce softer, marbled meat than grass fed varieties, while grass-fed tends to provide a more classic beefy chew. How you like your steak cooked is a very personal thing, but here's a suggestion: leave it to the chef – he knows the meat and how to get the best out of it.
Already home to some of Bangkok's finer restaurants, the Four Seasons hotel can also claim one of the city's most stylish and classy steakhouses. Designed by renowned New York-based architect Tony Chi, Madison (02-253-1000 ext. 1231/2) combines a pleasing sense of modernity with luxurious elegance. The dining hall is decked out in rich brown hues with steel chandeliers and an open kitchen. The private dining room can seat 16 and a handful of discrete cosy booths line offer privacy. Fine cigars and an absolutely splendid collection of premium malt whiskies encourage you to linger after your meal.
Aside from the Japanese options one might expect from such a venue – Matsuzaka strip loin, Kobe sirloin, Wagyu rib-eye – Madison offers two styles of chilled Black Angus prime Australian beef: long grain fed 240 days and short grain fed 100 days. The long grain is noticeably more tender, with a marginally higher fat content, while the short grain offers a slightly more robust steak. Both are excellent and available in a range of cuts.
This is unmistakably a steak restaurant; though the menu has recently expanded in such a way that one could eat like a king without touching red meat. For starters, it's hard to look past the shiitake and walnut ravioli with parmesan sauce – delicately thin half moons of pasta stuffed with the famously rich Japanese mushroom. And from the menu's exciting 'Apart From Beef' section, there are some fascinating options, including farm style roasted squab with sauteed spinach, and grilled Mediterranean sardines.
With a growing reputation as one of the finest steakhouses in town, Prime (02-442-2000) at the Millennium Hilton offers a great dining experience. The view is fantastic, the furnishings luxuriant and the staff knowledgeable and courteous. And what better way to start off than with a Martini provided by the Zeta bar? In addition to the comprehensive cocktail list and access to the hotel's 2,000 bottle wine collection, Prime lays claim to its own wine cellar, inside which groups can actually dine.
Phuket lobster bisque makes for a stylish starter, its subtle flavour enhanced by the accompanying pan-fried lobster ragout. But the crispy, citrusy pan-fried crab cakes with creamy lemon butter caper sauce really catch the eye and tease the tastebuds.
For entrees, the T-Bone does everything that you would hope from a famously gargantuan cut of meat, while the porterhouse and strip loin are similarly inviting. A particular favourite, Tournedos Rossini oozes with luxury and the surf and turf takes some beating. Meat is prepared on a beech wood grill in the open kitchen As with most hi-end steakhouses, the meat here is served solo, side-dishes chosen a la carte for you to pick at.
Hamilton's (02-236-9999) at the Dusit Thani is a classic venue, richly decorated with wood, chrome and frosted glass. Jazz wafts through the air and sepia tinged photgraphs line the walls, combining to create a great atmosphere. The particularly attentive service staff are also worthy of a mention here, as is the plush upholstery and crisp tableware. Gaze out on the central garden and enjoy the waterfall as you dine at this downtown Bangkok landmark.
Prime rib is carved at your table, the marbled meat falling away as the knife glides through – a splendid site. Grain fed Australian cuts of beef are prominent, as are Phuket lobster, and the house specialty - richly marbled Matsuzaka beef. Especially flavoursome sauces are served alongside the steaks, including traditional béarnaise, bbq and black pepper. Steaks are prepared on the kitchen's signature lava-stone grill.
Don't miss out on the chicken Caeser salad, which is as delicious as it is authentic and if you want to skip beef, check out the mustard herb crust lamb. For dessert, choose the chocolate sin cake.
Long established on the city's steak trail, Fireplace Grill (02-656-036) in the basement of the InterContinental hotel is low-lit, intimate and warmly inviting. The open kitchen forms the centrepiece of the venue, with chefs preparing premium imported meats in front of your eyes. Staff are attentive without being overbearing, while the stylish steel cutlery and mellow jazz strains only add to the sense of superior dining.
The selection of starters consists mainly of seafood, with the Taste of the Sea platter ideal for sharing. Along with oysters, tuna sashimi and snowfish, the platter includes the rather inventive chilled Maine lobster drizzled with a subtle and syrupy vanilla sauce. A surprisingly welcome pairing.
Japanese, US, Australian and Argentinean beef is on offer. The Australian Angus 300 days grain fed is juicy and tender, while the Matsuzaka is richly marble, the buttery texture calmed by a simple rocket garnish. Prime rib is carved to customer specifications out front. There are more than a dozen side dishes to be ordered a la carte, including creamy almond mashed potato and fresh baby greens salad with balsamic dressing.
The menu is perhaps surprisingly varied for a steakhouse. As well as a superb selection of oysters – Belon, Fine de Clair, Calm Cove prepared to your liking – there is an intriguing chef's recommendations section. Included is the delightful slow cooked Wagyu beef cheeks with chive mashed potatoes.
A solid wine cellar throws up some interesting option, while the imported cheese selection provides a wonderful way to close out the meal.
One of the most lauded restaurants in Bangkok, the New York Steakhouse (02-656-7700 ext 4240) is cosy, plush and extremely popular. Reservations are strongly recommended. The rich wooden interior embraces leather-bound wing-backed chairs and pictures of Manhattan from days gone by. There are a couple of private dining rooms for more intimate gatherings.
The menu has an extensive range of steaks, as well as an enticing seafood section. Succulent American and Australian grain fed beef is order of the day, with sizes ranging from the by-no-means-small 6oz steak filet mignon tartare, which is prepared at your table, to an enormous 20oz slab. Steaks are served on the restaurant's signature ‘bull horn' platters and without any noticeable garnish – it's the steak you've come to eat, and it truly is the star here. A range of sauces is available for those who like to perk things up a little, while side dishes include some interesting options, such as New York Hash Browns and devilishly good onion rings.
The surf and turf presents an 8oz Australian or US filet mignon with lobster tail and herb butter sauce, a classic combination. The tornedos, meanwhile, come with an exquisite topping of balsamic-flavoured foie gras. The grandstand steak, however, is a 14oz Kobe beef New York Striploin.
Other than beef and seafood, the 14oz roast rack of Australian lamb with seasonal fresh herbs is the pick. Dessert-wise, only a non-believer would pass up the New York cheesecake.
Providing a peaceful retreat from the mayhem on Sukhumvit Soi 39, My Favourite Steak Bar (0-2259-5960) is a comfortable, stylish new venue with an appealingly eclectic menu. Warm, low lighting inside soothes the eyes, while several tables outside in the Ozono complex courtyard offer a relaxing, al fresco option. There's no need to dress up in neckties and heels, and you're not going to break the bank: My Favourite is all about good food at affordable prices in a laid back atmosphere. A live jazz combo plays Thurs-Sat evenings and the open kitchen adds to this quaint little steak bar's visual allure.
A standard 8oz Australian grain fed steak is a snip at 490 baht, providing an extremely tender piece of meat with just enough chew to keep beef eaters satisfied. At the other end of the spectrum, the 10oz Wagyu rib-eye is sensationally juicy, with a pretty-near perfect quotient of fat to ensure the juices roll through the marbled steak.
The specials menu changes every couple of weeks, showcasing whatever the inventive chefs have been able to get their hands on. Aside from a decent selection of pasta dishes, the menu offers up some awfully tempting creations. Lamb larb with salad, roasted ground rice and mixed herbs reminds you that you're still in Thailand, while the surf and turf comprises giant river prawns with emmental cheese and filet mignon, or a double rack of Australian lamb. The wine list, meanwhile, is growing by the week.
Lending a local flavour to this carnivorous carnival is the charming Chokchai Steakhouse (02-259-9596) off Sukhumvit Road. With three outlets in Thailand, the company rears its own Charolais and Brahman cattle on a ranch in Nakhon Ratchasima, with choice cuts especially dry-aged to enhance flavour and texture, hence the distinctive aroma and softness of the meat. This is a place for cowboys to get their teeth stuck in to some hearty tucker.
Filet mignon and chateau briand are great value, while the steak sandwiches make a worthwhile meal on the go. But check out the very reasonably priced Chokchai Premium Steak from a Charolais steer no more than 3 years old. The meat is aged for 30 days, meaning it has a satisfying tenderness and alluring aroma.
If not everyone in your party is a steak head there are plenty of alternatives, as indicated by the extensive and varied menu. Most of it is standard Western fare, although there are some tasty Thai treats that should be sampled. Check out the nam jao dip and sticky rice and save room for the 'Umm…Milk' range of ice creams.
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