The Italian Job
By Laurence Civil
Ten years ago it was hard to find a good Italian restaurant in Bangkok. But in the past six years they have mushroomed to over 200 in Bangkok alone. Virtually all were opened with an Italian chef to set up the restaurant and train the kitchen staff. Today many only have Italian trained Thai chefs but in most cases it's hard to detect the difference.
It's the taste on the plate rather than nationality in the kitchen that counts. To achieve this the most important factor is the quality of the ingredients. The heart of Italian cuisine is simply using the best fresh quality ingredients.
Italian cuisine is the most popular western foodstyle in Asia, but why? We believe it's that both have noodles as a base ingredient: rice based in Asia and wheat based in Italy. Also the comfortably relaxed family style service style of sharing. Our selection is an example of the range of Italian cuisine available, our only consideration being the taste of the food they serve.
Fuzio
Open just a couple of months this has become the new Italian restaurant to watch in Bangkok. The only roof top restaurant in the Ekkamai area with a spectacular 280 view from the 6th Floor of the Mini Cooper Building. The dŽcor is essentially loft contemporary, very placed light and a combination of wood and leather furniture from Italy.
Before coming to Bangkok Chef Flavio Manzoni has been cooking from New York to South Africa, his cooking style is traditional Italian with a modern twist always ensuring that the dishes are as natural as possible. In charge of the wine cellar is Sommelier Cherdchai Tomkeaw taking care of some 960 labels with four reds and four whites available by the glass all poured into Reidel stemware.
A professional team to serve an impressive dining experience. To start a stack of pan seared French farm raised goose liver, interlaced with slices of poached peach, a raspberry reduction and fig compote, multiple fruit flavours making a great taste combination with the perfectly seared goose liver. Risotto with porcini mushrooms, topped with shaved black truffles and a slice of aged ricotta was a delightful culinary indulgence, it was as it we were eating gold.
What were impressive were the extra taste elements they added to a simple risotto, exceeding expectation. Tasmanian Wagyu Lamb is organically raised in a pristine environment only drinking pure rainwater. Those elements radiated into the flavour of the meat served with mashed potato and a Barolo reduction, pure quality. With the meal we enjoyed a bottle of easy drinking Cusumano Nero d'Avola.
Belguardo
The restaurant is chic bright and elegant, sophisticated yet comfortable relaxed. The service team has a good memory for the guest's last meal at their restaurant, it's impressive.
Marco Cammarata has successfully brought a five star restaurant with creative Italian cuisine to the ground floor of Siam Paragon, a unique lifestyle experience.
To start our meal a glass of Follador Proseco served in a chilled elegant flute, fresh, light citrus and floral flavors, a lively texture and a clean finish, just the right start to focus the palate on what is about to enjoy.
The grilled Alaskam scallops with olive chocolate tapernaide have a rich luxurious tasted. So lightly grilled to be white on the outside while in the middle a pinkish grey. I was tempted to try three ravioli, crab veal and lobster each different, none better than the other but the Ravioli of roast veal with white truffle essence had a taste with a comfort factor that pleased my taste buds.
The porcini mushrooms risotto could be a lunch dish just by itself.
There is enough sauce to make it moist yet each grain of rice perfectly cooked and crunchy, having taste many this is one of the best. What makes Belguardo standout is Marco's uncompromising approach to quality and the simple way he cooks with respect for his ingredients. For the main course a pefectly cooked filet of King fish with portabella mushroom that had a firm texture. This is excellence from quality and simplicity.
Giusto
The arrival on the walkway has a comfortable feel. Walking through the floor to ceiling built it wine cellar past the bar into the elegantly comfortable octagonal main dining room with recesses on each corner for larger tables a sense of semi-privacy. The restaurant has built its rock solid reputation on excellence of service, food and its extensive wine list.
To start a rock lobster black truffle salad served in Parmesan basket, paired with Fantinel Sant’ Helena Pinot Grigio. The cheese basket presentation brought the dish together nicely and barrel aged Pinot Grigio matched well with the truffles.
The truffle soup was luxuriously silky smooth and went well with the fullness and roundness of Fontadi Chianti Classico from Panzano in the heart of Chianti Classico region.
There was a very autumnal hearty taste to the Porcini mushroom risotto served around the bone from the veal stock it's cooked in. There was a high comfort factor in the richness of the sauce and the perfectly cooked rice. Lamb is now becoming very popular because of its healthy qualities and is a red meat alternative for those who can't eat beef.
The roasted rack of Tasmanian Wagyu Lamb was served in a thick rich sauce made of red wine, foie gras, chestnuts and black truffles, accompanied by a portion of truffle mashed potato and palate cleansing white asparagus. The lamb was perfectly pink inside and deliciously tender.
This was paired with Trancredi DOC Contessa Entellina one of the selected wines in our Italian food and wine-pairing article on page 24. For dessert grapefruit for an acidic element combined with the contrasting sweet and sour of green and sweet mango, a refreshing finish to the meal.
II Cielo
A comfortably elegant restaurant that has the feel of a contemporary Italian farmhouse, framed by an open wooden kitchen.
The Italian chef has recently moved on but the kitchen team are still producing the same excellent standard of food. To start a tasty beef carpaccio rocket salad combined both crunch and taste with slices of Parmesan cheese on top. Parma Ham with fresh figs proved a successful fresh taste combination.
The foie gras perfectly pan-fried with the essential paper thin sealed crispness, served with a balsamic vinegar reduction on toast. The porcini mushrooms have been blended with a touch of cream to create a great thick smooth tasting soup. The light seafood soup was served with a couple of mussel still in their shells.
The porcini mushroom risotto was perfectly cooked and would have been sufficient by itself, the slice of pan-fried foie gras was an additional indulgence. Gnocchi was nice and light with a good tomato salsa. While the angel hair pasta with mussels was deliciously al dente.
The oven baked snow fish was nicely cooked still firm and flaky served with grilled vegetables in a raw tomato and raspberry vinegar that made a good taste combination. The Lamb Osso Buca was nice and tender in a tasty rich sauce served a once again perfectly cooked saffron risotto, gourmet comfort food.
Throughout the meal we enjoyed several glasses of Marchesi de'Frescobaldi Riserva, from Tuscany a lovely ripe complex wine. On the nose open, sweet and herby while in the mouth flavours laced with cherry, great balance and concentration.
Primavera
A charming classically designed restaurant adorned gold framed sunny painting hanging on the walls to add warmth and style, formal elegance without a hint of stiffness.
To start a well-put together Akumi tuna tartar was neatly present in radicchio leaves. Chef Anek is a well-trained student of their former Italian Chef. He has mastered the art of pan drying foie gras for a matter of just a few minutes and his combination with green apple and white wine sauce worked well. The test of an Italian restaurant is their risotto, perfectly cooked with porcini mushrooms in chicken stock, it was moist yet firm. Presenting it in a Parmesan cup held the dish together nicely.
A palate cleansing raspberry sorbet was served before moving onto the main course of rack of Australian Lamb.
Served with theatre, our waiter counted down in Italian before a synchronized lifting of the pair of silver cloches. The meat perfectly pink, a good indication as to its quality. The richness of the meat balanced with well with mashed potato, roast garlic and fresh garden vegetables. It also matched well with our wine selection Pasqua, Valpolicella superiore DOC, Ripasso a rich, full-bodied wine, round and warm on the palate.
For desert a light pannacotta with tropical fruit in a rich orange sauce.
To conclude the meal, I had an espresso and from a wide selection on offer on the trolley, a grappa di Brunello, Banfi. The service was well orchestrated and highly professional.
Sacz
The two storey high ceiling gives a spacious feel to the Mediterranean theme and decor. One large room divided into the lounge bar and dining room, separated by a partial dividing wall so both can enjoy the cool live jazz. The opening Italian chef has moved on, but evidence of how well he trained his staff can be seen in the quality and authenticity of the food coming from the kitchen.
The salad combination of mozzarella and tomato salad can by found almost anywhere. What makes theirs different is the thick stack of alternating slice of Naples Buffalo Mozzarella and plump imported Italian tomato sitting on a bed of eggplant, rich and sumptuous, culinary art that tastes.
Next a perfectly pan-fried slice of Perigaud Foie Gras sitting on two columns of seared tuna. The foie gras had been cooked just enough to have the necessary paper thin crisp seal yet being soft and succulent inside.
Then a medallion of snow fish wrapped in Parma ham sat on a bed of sauteed spinach. The fish was perfectly flaky and tender, the taste balanced nicely with boiled potato and spinach.
Risotto is our judge of a good Italian restaurant. The Arborio risotto with spicy Italian sausage broccoli and sun dried tomatoes in a light walnut sauce is impressive. It has a rich hearty taste, the rice moist yet firm and could for some be a main course in its own right. To finish a pleasantly rich and smooth home made tiramisu dusted with just enough chocolate. This is a moderately expensive quality dining experience that is complimented by impressive live jazz.
NO.43 Italian Bistro
This is a chic elegant cafe style bistro with large lattice window that give it a bright airy comfortable feel. The Thai Chef who now has 10 years Italian cuisine experience was well trained by the consulting Italian Chef Claudio who set the restaurant. Dishes with an authentic Italian taste prepared by Thai hands.
The first dish to come to the table was rocket salad with prawns well presented on plain white china. The crisp green leaves has a tasty slightly bitter tang and complimented the fresh prawns.
Then stirfried king prawns with Mediterannean Black olives and spinach flan. The prawns were very succulent and made a good taste combination with the spinach.
Rissoto is a signature dish of the restaurant. The seafood rissoto was clear eveidence that he has mastered the Italian art cooking this rice dish, perfectly cooked in seafood stock to enrich the flavour of the rice. There was just enough juice for the essential moist taste while the grains were still al dente.
Again with the fettucini porcini mushroom, well cooked not overcooked pasta. The hearty wholesome taste of the daily made fresh mushroom cream sauce made a nice balanced dish a personal favourite with the chef. To finish a deep three layered tiramissu, the taste true to the authentic classical Italian taste, a pleasing rich creamy texture with each spoonful putting a feel of comfort in the mouth. This is affordable quality with excellent service.
Contrazi
A delightful two story bright white house with a terrace in front and the main dining room inside. There is a fresh open relaxed setting, the kitchen seen through a glass wall, a wood burning pizza oven and a walk-in wine cellar. The name comes from the Italian word to contrast, it's where tradition meets innovation.
This can been seen in the culinary style of their Thai chef who learnt his craft from the Italian Chef at The Sukhothai's La Scalla. As a non-native Italian while respecting the authentic Italian taste in term of technique and ingredients he is not restricted to total traditionalism.
The service was warm, attentive and friendly. We started with subtly grilled scallops served on a chequer boards of yellow and red peppers.
Our seared tuna was given some bite having been rolled in cushed black peppers. The terrine of foie gras served on toast had a comfortably smooth rich texture. The handmade lobster ravioli was served in a rich herb cream sauce. The house signature dish is veal shank served with silky smooth mashed potato. The richness of the meat balanced well with the potato, clearly demonstrating the quality.
From the first spoonful it was evident that the Sambuca Tiramisu was homemade. The lady's finger biscuits were deliciously soft having been soaked in liqueur. A delightful meal and a thoroughly enjoyable evening, good food served in a comfortably relaxed atmosphere.
We enjoyed a bottle of the round and easy to drink Pio Cesare, Dolcetta d'Alba, that proved to be the ideal wine match for the meal.
Paparazzi or Panorama
Chateau de Bangkok now offers its dinner guests a choice. For those preferring air conditioned comfort there is the familiar Paparazzi on the 2nd floor, alternatively those who are more comfortable with al fresco dining there is the new Panorama, an opened terrace with a view up Soi Ruamrudee to Ploenchit Road.
Both have similar Italian menus but ever eager to try something new we opted for Panorama. For our appetizer the Panorama Trio - Parma ham and melon with a subtle Thai twist in presentation but not in flavour. A scallop sauteed in garlic sauce served in a Chinese soup spoon and spinach stuffed ravioli dressed with a rich tomato caper sauce. The Hawaiian salad served in half pineapple shell was another example of the chef's creative presentation skills.
It was filled with pieces of pineapple, green pepper, shrimp, ham and kami mixed together in a creamy yet light sauce. Fettuccini with a chicken tom kha gai sauce served in coconut shell is an Italian-Thai marriage of flavours, contemporary culinary evolution. An influence from the country where the dish is being made, putting together a combination that works.
The trio of fish - pan fried seabass with almond sauce, snow fish in orange sauce that was not too sweet and Salmon in cream sauce all served with ratatouille. This show cased their new concept of offering a selection of meats and fish that the guests can order with a choice of 10 sauces and 10 different vegetables. For desert the chef presented pear poached in a caramelized red wine sauce with vanilla ice-cream, a very pleasant hot cold taste combination.
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