Your Songkran Survival Kit

By David W. Smith

Thailand's most celebrated holiday is the summer holiday in April, and in ancient times this festival was probably much like the 'mid summer' festivals which originated from pagan times in Europe. The Songkran Festival is its name and that comes from an old Sanskrit word meaning "Beginning of the Solar Year', but is more colloquially known as 'The Beginning of the Lunar Year', 'The Start of the Returns of the Rains' and of course 'Thai New Year'.

Thai people traditionally clean their houses thoroughly prior to the Songkran celebrations, and during the afternoon of the "Maha Songkran Day" the first day of the holidays, Buddha images are bathed & merit (offerings) is made at Buddhist temples. Young people show their respect to elders by performing the water ceremony, where they delicately pour scented water over the hands of parents and older relatives, as symbol of great respect and wishes of long life and happiness, while seeking the blessing of the older people. In ancient times, older generation were actually given a bath and clothes in new apparel presented by the youth as a mark of respect and well wishes for the new year.

Another tradition during Songkran is to release live fish and birds, as the custom to set free some fish goes back to the days when the central plains of Thailand were flooded during the rainy season. After the water subsided, pools were left and as the pools gradually dried up, baby fish were trapped. Farmers in those days caught small fish and kept them at home until Songkran day when they released them into the canals, thereby gaining merit as well as preserving one of the main items of their diet.

Generally most Thai people travel to their home province and towns to spend this 'Homecoming' festival with their parents and greater family. To Thai people, this festival is one of both religious & ancestral significance, but as is always the case here, it is always one of intense fun and frivolity with all, and to all that would participate, whether by intent or association. To show your delight by blessing one another with happiness and wishing them good luck, is the real beauty of the Songkran Tradition, thus the advocate of this tradition believes by doing so, they keep a good mind, good manners, kindness and gratitude to all others. These are the traditions that have been passed on for some 1,000 years.

Well, that is until a few recent modernizations though…

I don't exactly know who it was that invented the first double barreled, pump-action, hydrant-like water cannon, but I am sure that his marketing manager whisked the first proto-types off to Thailand in time for its first Songkran. Yes, you must remember the rules here and that is that in general, once the more traditional and solemn side of the holidays are done with, there are none. No strict water throwing rules that is. Thus the Songkran festival today holds the international honor of being 'The world's Largest & Longest Water Fight' and is embraced by virtually the whole population of 60+ million and their visitors.

This may strike fear and terror into the hearts, liver and kidneys of normal peace-loving tourists here to enjoy the temples and culture and all that, but slow up just a bit and remember that this tradition really did emanate from the incumbent culture and religion (unlike certain chocolate eggs etc from the one I grew up in) and in fact the blessing of others with water, is really just a colloquial way of wishing others much good luck and happiness, whether that be delicately poured from a bowl or propelled fiercely from the aforementioned water weapons.

So for those of you that may read this in anticipation of your first Songkran, let's portray some of the concepts, concerns, & defense stratagems to be aware of through his wet, fun and sometimes wild week of water war.

Firstly, do as the locals do, & wear a smile on the inside and out at all times. No one wishes you any harm, discomfort or displeasure. But do remember that 99% of the locals have absolutely no knowledge of western protocols of manners, demeanor or behavior, but then again that is OK because we are the visitors here, and this is their festival of fun, or in local terms - 'Sanook Sanook'.

Getting involved is as simple as being here, and some visitors are quite taken back at how readily the locals will invite you into their circle of friends and family with every intent upon perhaps garnering an upper hand against the hordes of pickup trucks with huge containers of water, buckets, water cannons and other water delivery devices, but certainly with that traditional principle of realizing good will and best wishes to all others.

So for those wanting to join the fun (and who doesn't?) buy yourself a water pistol or water cannon. There are many to choose from and they adorn all the stalls and shops from the beginning from April, but take it from a veteran, one of the most effective water propulsion devices is the thick pieces of PVC piping that has been modeled into what looks like an oversized bike pump. Do be aware though that you will need a healthy supply of water nearby, as these are only '1 shot in the gun' devices, but I assure you, they propel the maximum amount of strategic wetness available, and if you put a block of ice in your water reservoir, you have a potent mix for maximum fun indeed.

Alternatively, if you are of a more retiring disposition and don't wish to get too wet, then you may seek sanctuary in the inner recesses of a hotel, bar or restaurant. But remember you still have to run the gauntlet of getting to your chosen haven, and that beaming smile from your waiter or waitress, may cover a multitude of intents as a glass of cold water is poured down your neck! Think of it as a cooling, free shower in this hot, tropical climate and accept the congenial intentions of the deliverer, and wish them (sawat dee pee mai) a Happy New Year.

As a guide to your safety/comfort, wear clothes which you won't mind getting wet and protect any sensitive, personal items (camera, wallet/purse, Walkman, etc.) in plastic bags. Exuberant youth, in the tossing of water, will have no mercy and will not even see that expensive camcorder you may be carrying - so protect it in advance! Also, it is important to remember that you are in Thailand so it is wise to respect Thai dress codes of politeness and decency. Although you are going to get wet, it is not appropriate to walk around the streets in beachwear.

Pattaya has wisely separated its official Songkran Holiday to one week after the official holiday, and this has an interesting effect on the festivities around here. The traditional holiday is still observed of course from April 13th through to 15th, and as numerous local residents here originate from other provinces, many people desert the city at this time and spend the time with their greater family. The Pattaya Songkran day is then held the following week which is then the host to the famous Parade and beauty pageant along beach road, and of course the endemic water throwing and consequential water warfare.

Let this not lull you into a false sense of security though, the traditional endowing upon others of the best part of one's reservoir in your 'bush-fire fighting approved' water cannon and back-pack, is still the theme throughout the whole week or so, but the impetus builds to a crescendo on the final day, to where there is barely a street in either Pattaya or Jomtien which are not lined with locals and visitors dousing all passers by with water, and donning those within reach with the scented flour/water paste like war-paint.

Out on the streets, especially around Beach Road (both Pattaya & Jomtien) & 2nd Road, traffic will be bumper-to-bumper and the water will be of Biblical torrents. Thousands of people will be stationed along the streets and equally, thousands will be in the back of cars, trucks & pick-up trucks dispersing their form of sanook to all they encounter. Stirrup-pumps, garden hoses, buckets, pots, bowls, Elephants, and anything capable of delivering water, will see action through the day. Fifty-gallon water-drums will be mounted on the flatbed of trucks and, attended by a team of boisterous water-bombardiers, who will liberally douse anyone within range.

The traditions of Songkran have a long history and are still observed in the Thai homeland of Sipsong Panna in southwestern China, in Laos, Cambodia and in northern Vietnam & Burma. Songkran or the Thai New Year is actually the occasion of the passing of the sun from Aries into Taurus, but today the festival is also an amalgamation of those traditions and the modern, international society that Thailand has evolved into. So here's hoping that you enjoy this Songkran at whatever level of involvement you choose, but do look a little bit beyond what may appear to be mad water warfare, and see that the intentions are essentially about a good mind, good manners, kindness and gratitude to all others.