Motorcycle Story
Cambodia Perspectives

Motorcycle Story By Thomas Rossetti

Wow! I can't believe how well the locals drive here in Pattaya! That's the first thought I had when I got back into town.

My vacation, taken during the Songkran period was a good one. Although I always get around on Motorcycle Taxis when I travel around Phnom Penh even that experience allows for a different kind of riding perspective whilst being a Passenger. The first thing I always notice is that, even considering the large amount of traffic on the streets you seldom see any accidents of serious consequence. Even small "fender benders" as we used to call them in the States, are virtually non-existent. In addition, most of the bikes you see seldom have mirrors. This particular habit is one I really do not appreciate as even if my Driver doesn't care what's going on behind him, I do. I have been travelling to Cambodia since the mid-80s and not much has changed in this regard. What I have come to realize is that the Khmer style of riding albeit somewhat chaotic especially seen through Foreign eyes, tends to work.

The reason for example most locals do not feel they need mirrors on their bikes is that they feel as long as they pay attention to everything directly in front of their vehicle and everyone else does the same they can avoid most dangerous situations. Of course the exception to that is when they are crossing an intersection with cross traffic and they need to look both ways. This very myopic way of riding perhaps is congruent with the, "one life, one country" way of thinking that has permeated the lives of the Khmers long before I was even born. Incidentally, I have discovered that the many mirrors that most bikes are equipped with at the time of purpose are given to sweethearts and simply used around the house. A friend of mine has confirmed this by saying that he sees them in some of the brothels he visits around the city.

On the Riverfront there is a Guest House / Hotel called California 2 owned by a friendly American named Jim. Jim showed me his many photos of his dirt bike trips around Cambodia. Absolutely fantastic and from what he says, great country riding and great people. If you have the time it would be well worth checking out if you are up there and looking for a riding experience out of this world, literally. You can find his contact information easily on the Internet. After the big city I decided to catch some beach time down in Sihanoukville, a 4 hour ride by bus from P.P. Years ago renting a motorcycle was no big deal but from what I was initially told, because of so many Foreigners being involved with accidents the Government now does not allow Foreigners to ride without a Cambodian drivers license. Later on in my trip after securing a bike through my hotel, I found out the real story. Apparently, there was one major motorbike rental conglomerate that had a falling out with the Mayor of the city and this is why they made it difficult to find anyone wanting to rent you a motorcycle without leaving a large security deposit. I must say it was a bit hard to believe that the Cambodian Govt. cared so much for my welfare.

The riding environment in Snooky does seem a bit more precarious but with some good old fashioned common sense the riding environment can be negotiated. It was a real nice feeling not having to depend on the non-English speaking local Drivers to get around. Although the bike was just a simple 125cc "rice burner" it allowed me to experience the relatively well maintained roads with the wind in my face. The full moon was an extra treat and I had on several occasions found a sweet thing to enjoy the nice ride from Victory Hill to my Hotel.

I was told that if I got stopped it would cost me $20 as a fine / bribe before going on my way. I was also told that I needed to always lock up the bike as well as I would be responsible for a theft on the bike and I think most of us know how that works. The rental company steals the bike from where you are staying, hide it away for awhile until you go back home and then make a nice profit on the rental as well as the money you paid because the bike was stolen. These are definitely things worth considering before renting. A nice Hotel incidentally you might want to remember is The Holiday Hotel on Ocheautal Beach. It was only about 50 meters from the beach, cost $15 per night for a nice clean room and the Management also secured the bike for $5 per day. For a complete list of Hotel listings you will find them easily on the Internet as well as Holiday. Holiday also picked me up at the bus stop as well.

All in all, a great trip with a little bit of local riding. Of course it's nice to be back in the saddle with the Harley again here in the Land of Smile and Pattaya, City by the Sea.

Ride safe and enjoy.

Motorcycle StoryCambodia Perspectives

Motorcycle Story
Cambodia Perspectives