Tattoos and Thailand
The idea of having a tattoo had appealed to me long before I ever came to Thailand. In fact, I doubt I had even heard of the country when, like most schoolboys my age, I used to cover my arms with sticky water transfers that were sold in a packet with a couple of pieces of bubble gum.
My friends and I would look like a bunch of tiny Popeye impersonators with our sleeves rolled up and our young forearms alive with rapidly fading colour.
Having progressed into my teens, I was all set to take the traditional next step and put a home made, permanent mark on the back of my hand using a needle and a small jar of Indian ink.
Fortunately for me, however, my best friend and partner in crime went first, which gave me the opportunity to reconsider once I had seen that the finished article, which simply spelt the name of his girlfriend, didn't look anywhere near as good as we had intended.
My own girlfriend was not very happy that I didn't think enough of her to follow suit, but it was a small price to pay for avoiding the kind of ugly scrawl my friend was stuck with.
After reaching the age of majority and over the following few years, I went so far as to visit the shops of several tattoo artists back in the UK, but I could never quite decide upon a design. After all, it was for life. And, as my Mum and Dad had always pointed out whenever the subject of tattoos had arisen, our tastes tend to change over the years.
They invariably used the example of my uncle, who had found God and given up being a magician to become a Vicar, a Priest in the Church of England.
Time and again, they told us how he regretted the various large and colourful designs on each of his arms. I don't think they ever realized that when I had asked him about it, he hadn't actually seemed to regret having had them done quite as much as my parents suggested. I'm not quite sure what it was about being in Thailand that finally pushed me over the edge and convinced me to go ahead to get a tattoo. But I am certain that it was no coincidence that it was here in the Land of Smiles that I finally climbed into the artist's chair.
It could have been the sunshine and the laid back, carefree atmosphere that tends to infect you while you are in this most relaxed of environments. Maybe it was the prevalence of tattoos on both locals and tourists here, providing the positive reinforcement I needed to overcome the memories of negativity from my parents.
However, I rather fancy it was because I was allowed to drink beer while the artist worked. A bit of Dutch courage goes a long way in such circumstances. That said, it wasn't a drunken decision, which would have been a terrible idea. I had definitively resolved to go ahead and finally settled upon a design while I was still sober.
I simply drank to deal with the last minute doubts that I suspected would otherwise surface. Tattoos have actually long played an important role in Thai society. Historically, as with the New Zealand Maoris and other South Sea Islanders, tattoos have had a strong tribal significance here and throughout much of South East Asia.
For example, in the 19th century, so called "tattoo trousers" were used to signify membership of certain Thai tribes. No doubt as painful as they sound, the intricate, yet extensive markings covered large swathes of male tribe members' legs. However, the history of tattoos goes back a great deal further than a couple of hundred years.
Tools that have been estimated to date back approximately forty thousand years, and which are believed to have been used for early tattooing, have been found on archeological digs. Historians believe that these early tattoos were essentially deliberately created scars. Subsequently, soot was introduced into the wounds to create colour. That said, it goes without saying that dating the history and defining the nature of early tattoos usually involves little more than educated guesswork and sometimes the interpretation of archaic writings.
The simple reason is that the best evidence, the human skin upon which they were etched, was rarely preserved for any great length of time after death. However, there have been exceptions to this "rule", such as a few years ago when the body of a man who had been dead nearly 5,500 years was found frozen and thus well preserved in the Swiss Alps.
Sure enough, his flesh was found to contain a basic form of tattooed markings. It is generally considered that tattooing in this part of the World has a similarly long history. References can be found in ancient Khmer texts suggesting that tattooing was common in their society as early as the 1st century AD, while some time later King Rama I is known to have utilized a form of tattooing to identify freemen.
However, the permanent marking of the body was not only used to identify allies and friends. Tattoos have long been associated with Hinduism and in particular Brahminism, as well as Buddhism and Tai Animism. Over the years, these various religious beliefs have become intertwined or, perhaps more accurately, rather confused in providing a spiritual basis and mystical importance for certain tattoos.
For this reason, this form of tattooing has traditionally been carried out by monks, a practice that continues today, most notably at Wat Bang Phra close to Bangkok where a famous tattooing festival takes place each year. The monks tattoo designs that are believed by those wearing them to have magical qualities.
The ink used is said to contain a mix of snake venom, herbs and cigarette ash and is believed to help in the spiritual process, although quite what the fag ash is supposed to contribute I am not entirely certain. The tattoos themselves range from Khmer text, Buddhist prayers and Chedis to mythical creatures, such as Hanuman the Hindu Monkey God and Ganesh, his elephant equivalent, and to somewhat more mundane animal images such as tigers, birds and snakes. Each tattoo is said to have particular spiritual qualities.
Some protect the wearer from harm, indeed they are said to stop bullets, while others are believed to make the recipient a feared warrior. Perhaps unsurprisingly, these supposed properties make the tattoos extremely popular with criminals and gang members. But not all of the designs are related to conflict.
Some promise far more pleasant benefits, like prosperity or even adulation. It is not all good news for the recipients though, for the spiritual properties of the tattoos are all for nothing unless the wearer continues to display the necessary devotion to them, which in simple terms essentially means abiding by the basic precepts of Buddhism and praying to both the tattoos and the monk tattooists. Moreover, the powers of the tattoos wear off over time and so must be refreshed by repeated blessings by the monks.
I can only guess that this is where it all tends to fall down a bit; hence the lack of verifiable reports of bullets having being stopped by well placed body art. The manufacturers of Kevlar body armour should therefore feel free to relax a little. Those who are given the tattoos also have to suffer a brief onset of apparent post tattooing madness, which causes them to rush around the temple's grounds like crazy men, seemingly in a trance like state and under the control of "tattoo spirits", until they are hauled down by waiting custodians.
This part of the ritual, which has strong connections to ancient animist beliefs, is particularly popular with the crowds that attend the event each year. I am not sure if the "tattoo spirits" possessing these individuals have names, but if they do I would hazard a guess that they are something like "Mehkong" or perhaps "Johnnie Walker". Here in Pattaya, there are over seventy tattoo studios and therefore plenty of options for anyone looking to get one. However, the Soi Watan tattoo studio (tel. 089 809 9317) offers something slightly different.
The studio can be found just off Soi Watan, which is located directly across Sukhumvit Road from South Pattaya Road, and what makes it different is that the tattooists use traditional Thai techniques. Call them for directions. Tattooist Gabriel, well known in Pattaya learnt his trade during eight years spent in a Wat in Chon Buri.
The method he uses is the same as the monks at Wat Bang Phra and doesn't involve the buzzing, electrical tattooing machine that will be familiar to most people who have had a tattoo, but rather a thin metal rod with a small piece of bamboo inserted into the end, which in turn houses the tattooing needles.
The tool is balanced on his fingers in a manner similar to how a snooker cue is rested when one plays a shot. His subject's body takes the place of the snooker table while he jabs the skin to make the design. An advocate of this traditional method of tattooing will tell you that it ensures more intricacy in the design.
The reason for this is that the tool can house less than the minimum number of needles needed for a machine. Moreover, the skill level of someone like Gabriel is really quite amazing. He doesn't need any of the water transfers that so many tattooists like to follow. Everything is free hand and the level of detail is fantastic. Another advantage is that it is probably easier for you, as the customer, to ensure that new needles, and thus clean ones, are used. In the case of the Soi Watan studio, they believe that their approach to tattooing is far less commercial than most studios in Pattaya.
They do it for the love of tattooing and of art, a fact that is borne out by their relaxed approach to pricing. Most important to them is a customer's satisfaction. However, to give a rough guide, for a design covering your shoulder, you would be looking at around 3-4,000 Baht.
Several theories have been advanced as to why we, as a race, seem fascinated by tattoos. After all, they are painful and therefore unpleasant to have done. Indeed, the origins of the very word tattoo, the Tahitian word "tatau", implies as much. So why should we willingly submit to a less than pleasurable experience.
Some anthropological experts believe that the pain is in fact the very essence of the attraction. They suggest that the willingness to put up with severe discomfort, and actually display indifference towards it, is part of one's spiritual development, providing evidence of growth. Personally, and for what it is worth, I am not altogether sure about that. I think I can honestly say that proving my ability to take a bit of pain had little, if anything, to do with my desire to get a tattoo. It was a downside rather than an attraction.
If that had been my motivation, I think I would first have worked a little on my ability to have an injection without passing out. Speaking for myself, I think a well drawn tattoo of a good design looks great and I wanted to improve my appearance. It was as simple as that. Whatever your reason, the number and variety of studios here make Pattaya a great place to get a tattoo.
However, before committing, make sure you have a good look at the individual's work in their photo albums or on their other customers and don't rush to choose a design. Make sure it is something that is likely to stand the test of time. Maybe even sit around and watch the artist do a couple to ensure that what you have seen is an accurate indicator of their ability.
And, if you want my advice, be slow to get the name of your significant other included in any design. If their status changes in the future, to have the tattoo removed or altered is a real pain. You only need ask my old school friend.
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